Check your new car or van
Buying a new vehicle can be a very exciting time, but it is important to make sure you don’t get carried away.
Make sure you test drive the car properly before reaching a decision. You should also make sure you carry out some important checks on your car, before and after purchase.
Get a valuation
If you don’t know the true value of a car or van, how can you expect to pay the correct amount for it?
Making sure you get a vehicle valued before you buy it – or sell it – is the key to saving yourself as much money as possible. Online tools such as the Car Valuation Calculator from Confused.com can be useful in getting a predicted ballpark value of a vehicle.
The service and MOT history of a car can tell you a lot about the condition it is in and highlight any previous advisory notices and reasons for failure, so you can ensure that these have been resolved with the relevant documentation before you make a decision to buy.
MOT history and current MOT status can be checked using license plate details via the government Driving and Vehicle Standards Agency Check MOT Service webpage.
Knowing the full history and condition of a car through its official MOT documentation can help you to get a better gauge of the true value of a car, including advisories that may turn into additional costs to you in the near future if you buy the car. Not only does this assist in ensuring your vehicle of interest is roadworthy and help to negotiate the best price, it also allows you to take into consideration how the car will fit into your future budget.
When thinking about the value of a car, one of the key factors to consider is how old it is. It’s a well shared fact that a car starts to lose value as soon as you drive it off the forecourt.
By the time the car is a year old, you should expect the value of the car to have reduced by at least 40%. After three years, the car can be up to 60% off the original sale price.
Thankfully, this quick rate of depreciating value doesn’t continue. As the car ages beyond three years, the age-related depreciation becomes less and less significant. Different models and manufacturers will also vary in the speed at which their value depreciates.
The second most important thing to consider when purchasing a used car or van is the mileage.
On average, a car is expected to go 10,000 miles each year, so this figure is used as the average rate at which cars depreciate.
Following this logic, if a car is three years old it should have roughly 30,000 miles on the milometer. If you check the milometer and discover the number is higher, you know you need to look at the price more carefully because the car will have been more thoroughly used than you might expect for its age. For example, if you see a three-year-old car with 40,000 miles on the clock, it should be valued as a four-year-old car, with the appropriate price tag attached.
Does the vehicle come with the official manuals, service history book and the V5C vehicle registration document included? You will need all these important documents going forward, especially if you plan to resell the car later on. It’s worth having a good look at the documents as well to make sure that details like the mileage are consistent with what is presented on the milometer.
Official car manuals will help to make sure you can keep your car running efficiently, and give you guidance on how to maintain your car.
For used cars in particular, make sure you check the state of the engine before you part with any money. If you spot that work needs doing you should try to negotiate a reduced price, although don’t expect to make any huge cost savings.
For example, if you check the engine and discover that the spark plugs or radiator hoses need replacing, perhaps reduce the agreed price by one or two hundred pounds.
You can find an illustrated guide on some of the main things to look out for when checking an engine here.
Make sure you properly inspect the vehicle for exterior damage before you part with any money. Even if some scratches and dents appear to be nothing more than cosmetic defects, you can usually get the seller to lower the price simply by acknowledging them.
As a guide, dents that are around the size of a coin should lower the price by about £50 each – the price to have them repaired. Anything larger should be £100-£150.
Make sure you look at the windows and mirrors of the car for damage too. Any cracks or chips on the windscreen will need fixing immediately. Even the smallest crack or chip can become a lot larger if the car jolts suddenly, or if water freezes in the crack. Some cracks can also cause a car to fail an MOT, particularly if the crack is obscuring the view of the driver. In the case of chips and cracks, you should expect to ask for another £100-£150 off the asking price.
In contrast to the exterior, damage to the interior won’t net you much of a discount but it’s worth checking for any obvious issues which will cost money to fix. For example, if the air conditioning works but is a bit smelly, the system will need recharging by an expert which can cost between £40-£50. If it doesn’t work at all, expect a bigger discount of at least a couple of hundred pounds.
As for the seats, this is a much more personal issue. It is highly unlikely that a seller will negotiate much on price if the seats are damaged.
Doors, hood, and boot
Check that the doors, hood, and boot all open and shut properly and that the rubber linings are soft, but do not let in water.
If the rubber linings are damaged in any way, water can flood into the car and cause very expensive problems for you later down the line.
The brakes can only be checked during the test drive of your vehicle. If you find that the car does not brake as quickly as it should or if you feel they are not working properly in any way you should give them your full attention.
Replacing brakes is a pretty straightforward procedure that any mechanic can do for you, but the real challenge is the cost. The cost can vary depending on what is wrong with the brakes, and whether it is the brake pads or the discs that have an issue. Only an expert will be able to tell the difference.
Replacement pads are relatively cheap, costing around £150. However, if the discs need replacing as well, you should expect a cost of at least £500.
Shock absorbers are one of the easiest features to test in your new car. Simply push down on one corner of your vehicle. Ensure that the car bounces just once before it settles back into place. If it bounces more than that, you need new shock absorbers.
Shock absorbers can be quite expensive to replace, but well worth it if you live somewhere will uneven roads. You should expect the cost to be between £200 and £500, including labour.
Checking out the tyres is important for your own safety, especially if you’re planning to drive the car away.
The legal lower limit of tread depth for a tyre is 1.6mm, the width of the border of a 20p coin. If the tread is below this, ensure you have new tyres before you drive the car away, both for your own safety and to ensure that the car is legal to drive.
If the tyres are close to needing replacing you could argue with the seller that this should mean a discount on the price. You could also ask the seller if they often need to top up the tyres with air as this can potentially suggest a slow puncture, but this will be hard to determine from viewings or test drives.
Keep in mind that the average cost for four new tyres, including fitting and alignment, is between £200 and £300.
If your car has any technical features – most cars will do – it is wise to get the car dealer or seller to show you how they work. You’ve paid for them, so you might as well get the most use you can out of them.
If buying from a private seller, you should make sure you receive a full list of any modifications that have been applied to the car, as this can influence the price of your insurance.
Vans purchased with extras such as roof rack bars should be checked to ensure they are in good condition before purchase and use.
It all adds up
Make sure that as you inspect the car you are keeping a full tally of the damage and associated costs. Each individual issue might seem small, but it all adds up quickly, as the checklist below shows!
- Spark Plugs Replacing £100 – £200
- Radiator Hose Replacing £100 – £200
- Bodywork Dent (Small) £50 Each
- Bodywork Dent (Large) £100 – £150
- Window Chip/Crack £100 – £150
- Air Conditioning Smell £40 – £50
- Air Conditioning Broken ~£200
- Replacement Brake Pads ~£150
- Replacement Brake Discs ~£500
- Shock Absorbers Replacement £200 – £500
- Tyres Replacement & Alignment £200 – £300 for all 4